The Bamboo Mat Masterclass: Rolling Tight, Even Maki

Rolling maki is less about strength and more about setup. Wrap your bamboo mat in plastic wrap so rice never sticks in the slats. Keep a bowl of water with a splash of vinegar nearby and a damp towel for your knife.

Lay the nori shiny side down with the long edge toward you. Wet your fingertips and spread a thin layer of rice, about a quarter inch deep, leaving a bare strip at the far edge. The most common mistake is too much rice; you should be able to see nori through it in spots.

Place fillings in a tidy line just below the center. Less is more. Lift the edge of the mat with your thumbs while holding the fillings in place with your fingers, then roll the mat forward until the rice edge meets the rice on the far side. Tuck firmly, lift the mat and keep rolling onto the bare nori strip.

Once the roll is closed, cover it with the mat and gently squeeze along its length to shape it. For square-edged rolls, press the top and sides with flat fingers. Let the roll rest seam side down for a minute so the nori softens and seals.

Slice with a long, very sharp, wet knife. Cut the roll in half first, line up the halves and slice them together. Wipe the blade after every cut. After a few rolls you will find your rhythm, and the mat will start to feel like an extension of your hands.