Hosting a Temaki Night for Eight

If rolling sushi for a crowd sounds stressful, host a temaki night instead. Everyone builds their own cone at the table, which means you spend the evening eating instead of assembling.

Plan on about one and a half cups of cooked sushi rice per person and four to five hand rolls each. Make the rice an hour ahead and keep it covered with a damp towel.

Offer three or four proteins, such as salmon, tuna, cooked shrimp and a spicy crab salad, plus plenty of vegetables: cucumber, avocado, shiso, lettuce, pickled radish and scallions. Slice everything into sticks about the length of your finger.

Cut nori sheets in half and keep them sealed until the last moment, since crisp nori is the whole point. Set out small bowls of soy sauce, spicy mayo and sesame seeds.

Demonstrate one roll, then let guests take over. Keep extra rice and a bowl of water at each end of the table so everyone can reach them, and enjoy the noise.