Buying Fish for Raw Dishes: A Counter-Side Checklist

The words sushi grade are not a regulated standard, so the most important tool you have is conversation. Tell the person behind the counter exactly what you plan to do: eat the fish raw today. A good fishmonger will point you to the right pieces and tell you honestly when something is better cooked.

Look before you buy. Tuna should be a clear, glassy red or deep pink with no brown edges or rainbow sheen. Salmon should look moist and bright with firm, well-defined white lines. White fish like snapper should be translucent rather than milky. Nothing should smell fishy; fresh seafood smells like clean sea water.

Ask about freezing. Many fish intended for raw eating, especially salmon, are frozen at very low temperatures to reduce the risk of parasites. That is a good thing, not a compromise. Thaw frozen fish slowly in the refrigerator on a paper towel.

Buy a block rather than pre-cut slices when you can. A single even piece is easier to slice cleanly and has less exposed surface. Bring a cooler bag with an ice pack, go straight home and keep the fish in the coldest part of your refrigerator until you are ready to slice.

Finally, plan to eat raw fish the day you buy it. If plans change, cook it. Seared, baked or tucked into a crunchy roll, good fish is never wasted.