Tobiko and Scallion Gunkan Row
Crunchy roe boats set over a bed of shaved daikon. Shaping nigiri is easier than it looks once the rice is seasoned properly and your hands are damp.
- Prep
- 40 min
- Cook
- 20 min
- Total
- 1 hr
- Serves
- 3
- Level
- Medium

Photo: Horizon Content / Pexels
Tobiko and Scallion Gunkan Row is all about balance between cool fish and warm, lightly seasoned rice. Grated daikon softens rich or fried food, and fine daikon threads make a classic bed for sashimi. Tobiko adds a tiny pop and a flash of color; a small spoonful goes a long way. A small dish of pickled ginger between bites keeps the palate fresh.
Method
Wash 2 cups of sushi rice gently with your fingertips, changing the water until it is only faintly cloudy, then leave it to drain for 15 minutes so the grains hydrate evenly.
Cook the rice with 2 1/4 cups of water and a small square of kombu in a rice cooker, or in a covered heavy pot: bring to a boil, then keep it on the lowest heat for 15 minutes. Rest 10 minutes with the lid on.
Stir together the rice vinegar, sugar and salt until clear. Turn the hot rice into a shallow bowl, pour the seasoning evenly over it and cut through the rice with a paddle, fanning as you go so it cools quickly and turns shiny.
Prepare the garnishes: slice the scallions very thinly and cut the daikon into hair-thin threads and soak them in ice water.
Mix a small bowl of tezu: water with a splash of rice vinegar. Wet your hands, take about 20 g of rice and squeeze it gently into an oval pillow. Make 12 to 14 pillows, keeping them loose inside.
For the gunkan pieces, wrap a 1 1/4 inch strip of nori around a rice pillow so it stands taller than the rice, seal the end with a crushed grain of rice and spoon the topping into the boat.
Lay each topping over its rice, then use your index and middle fingers to press it down along the length so it curves neatly.
Arrange on a chilled plate, finish with scallions and serve right away with soy sauce and pickled ginger.
Chef's note
Aim for rice that is body temperature. Cold rice feels hard and hot rice warms the fish.
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